1998 Question of the Week:
"If you were designing a touring car for Associated, what features would you demand?"
4wd, ball bearings, and compatibility with existing wheels.
Jeff "Raisin" Cain
titanium turnbuckles, graphite chassis, competition shocks, aluminum nuts and screws, graphite shock towers, ball bearings, um that's bout it everything else could be close to the same as an rs4, later
pro-line S3 pre-assembled caps, one-way clicker, belt tensioners F/R, aramid belts, graphite chassis, top plate, shock towers, etc., aluminum bulkheads, externally adjustable ball diffs, aluminum shocks, your new blue titanium turnbuckles, aluminum parts, 48 pitch gear, stick or saddle pack holders, batt holders that don't use strapping tape, etc, etc. ALL THE GOOD STUFF!!!
OH YEAH I FORGOT UNIVERSALS OR CVDS ALL AROUND
four wheel drive, lots of the blue stuff. full graphite full ball bearings, super narrow tires, alum knuckles
ASSOCIATED IS THE BEST!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
4 wheel belt drive. Excellent High Speed Steering. Easily converted for offroad duties. In other words, has to be able to become a rally car. It must be lite. Able to accept saddle & side by side packs. Optional 64pitch and 48pitch gearing. Just some ideas....
1) MIP CVDs. 2) Genuine Proline tires. 3) Belt tensioner. 4) Graphite chassis. And any other great things that associated has on it's new line of products for this touring car!!
four wheel independent suspension, fully adjustable, sway bars, bearing included, the new micro shocks, blue screws, a six pack of gears, upper/lower graphite chassis, alum. wheels, three belt drive train, accepts body's from other popular car makers (a hot motor and slicks FREE for a limited time)
enclosed drivetrain, like the Losi Street Weapon. It helps to keep dirt and debris out. Team shocks, ball bearings, ball differentials (Associated tranny?), graphite chassis, nitro version. That's it!
A competition 4WD touring car would probably include the following features: graphite chassis, ball bearings, dual belt drive, a belt tensioner, aluminum or shinny CVDs, ball diffs, hard anodized aluminum shocks, sway bars, blue anodized aluminum screws, blue titanium turnbuckles, titanium hinge pins, hex-shaped hub spacers that fit most touring car rims, and supper-narrow belted slick tires. This car may be expensive but you wouldn't need to buy any hop-ups.
DaveD327
I would demand shaft drive because it's neater, more realistic and you don't have to worry about broken belts. I would also like lots of graphite and titanium parts to be standard equipment.
4 wd. Foam and radial tires. Extreme tunability. Parts in common with RC10. Complete kit including Good body , motor, electrics. SAE fit parts. Upgradeable.
I would want adjustable body mounts, so that it can fit a larger amount of aftermarket bodies. I would also want a gas conversion kit for the electric kit, so that I wouldn't need to buy a whole new car instead.
If I was making a 4WD touring car I would put belt tensioners on and make quality gears, diffs and pulleys. I would leave some parts as options to buy later to keep cost down. But include the best parts in a team version. TA already makes good instructions so that area isn't a problem. Then I would make the diffs easy to get to and to adjust them. To top everything of I would include a lexan "FIERO" body for the car ... Good luck 8-)
I would demand Factory Team parts, a LRP speed control, Reedy motor, Zapper battery, and bearings.
The new Four wheel Drive Tour car... I do hope it will be 4wd.... Should be called the "Team Associated 'RC4TC' , TC = Tour Car, Or an 'RC10PP' , Pavement Ppounder. For the Gas version, Call it the 'RCG4TC' It sounds kinda long... but FAST!
HIGH QUALITY PARTS, 4WD, TRANSFERABLE TECHNOLOGY TO A 4WD BUGGY. I REALLY HOPE YOU MAKE A OFF-ROAD 4WD SOON! :-)
Durability is definitely a big thing. I would want a very strong chassis material- graphite or aluminum. (aluminum is a better budget material) The shocks would need to be aluminum and anodized ( preferably blue!). I would go four wheel drive and include some proline tires. Aluminum shock towers would be nice- and are there MIP CVD's for touring cars? Those would be cool two! Zak Swartz
I'd demand a low gear ratio, a fast stock motor, and a 2-speed tranny
I would want to have strong parts and high speeds I would also like for it to have a electronic speed control not the mechanical one that my rc10 came with.
long a-arms, lay-down shock placed like shumachers or tenth technology shock, comes decked out with hop-ups stock, more room to put electronics, weight distributed evenly over the tires excellent handling and is very light and is fast off the start (punchy) easy to reach bat. motor heat sink .....and a COOL LOOKING CAR!!
There are many things I would include: adjustable body mounts and standardized width (think aftermarket adaptability), ProLine tires (only use the best), durable chassis (T3 material would be good), anodized aluminum shocks (neutral color), Sport and Team versions (broader market), FWD and 4WD models (class flexibility), ride height adjusters (rally racing), gas conversion kit (for the NITRO nuts), 2-speed transmission (ballistic speed!!), 2-way bearings (reversing ESCs are more realistic), etc... I'd call it RC10RT (or RC10RTG- gas, RC10RTF- FWD, RC10RT4- 4WD). Why? RT would stand for Rally/Tourer, denoting te flexibility of the chassis design. THANX!
A good belt system. good chassis design.
full CVD's, graphite everything, graphite composite susp. pieces, aluminum shocks, blue titan. turnbuckles, aluminum knuckles/bulkheads, Pro-line assembled caps, etc.
I would want one to be 2WD and another to be 4WD and it would be electric, but somewhere the road it would have a nitro brother. It would have a 2-speed transmission and would also be made of aluminum and have included Reedy 2000 Zappers & motor and LRP ESC. But it would also be low in price. NOW THAT'S WHAT I'D DO!
Predictable handling characteristics, very high top end speeds with stock motors, an incredibly low center of gravity, and the options of using stick AND/OR saddle packs. For the gas, I would like to see the car outfitted with enough room for the O.S LD engine, Non PS to be able to easily be bolted on to it. Also, I think that the Nitro version should have an aluminum engine mount to an engine mount plate, but... The main chassis should be Fiberglass or even better, Woven Graphite, not that molded LOSI junk. Keep up the good work guys, I have every off road kit that you have made so far. A few pan cars too, RC300 and the 2wd RC500. And, yes, I will be buying both of these new touring cars when they are released. I currently race a Nitro RS4 W all the hopups, and a Tenth Tech Predator Electric, I would be very Very ... Wait.. VERY INTERESTED in buying both of these kits. Keep up the unmatched super work you guys do best.
The Best Racer in the World, (WELL, not really,) Rick from Cincy,
I would demand cvd drives, graphite chassis, and 2 degree adjustable toe-in.
(in no particular order) 1. Use available rims (either hex-style or losi) - don't use a new type
2. Easy one-way/4wd selection like on the YR4-M2
3. Efficient 2 belt transmission. Sure, in mod class with pro drives, 2 or 3 belts doesn't matter. But some local tracks run only stock class sedans.
4. Balanced (left-right and front-rear) or underweight so that it can be balanced with added weight.
5. Available springs (at least 1 harder and softer than default)
6. Available sway bars 7.
PTFE alloy shocks
8. Belt tensioner?
9. Aluminum motor mount
10. Carbon fiber chassis is nice (but not necessary).
11. Batteries close to centerline
12. Hole in rear housing to allow the ejection of the occasional pebble 20. Not a car desire, but kit... include Ti turnbuckles
OIL FILED SHOCKS, BEARINGS, BALL DIFF, FRONT UNIVERSAL PRO-LINE TIRES, TURNBUCKLE TIE RODS, AND MAYBE A TWO SPEED TRANNY
I would make 4wd offroad car first and but with parts that are transferable with the other off road Associated cars B3&T3
I would make 4wd offroad car first and parts that are transferable with the other off road Associated cars B3&T3
4WD. In the team version if you include MIP CVDs, have aluminum ones instead of steel. Super efficient drive train, I mean no friction at all. And if you can, better than the RS4 Pro, it will be hard.
the classic three kits (Basic, Sport, Team) and the addition of a Super Kit which would have all the factory stuff, like blue parts, Graphite (Carbon fiber), ect ect ect. Super Tunable suspension. with many different ride heights to take onroad, to light off road. MUST BE DURABLE!
mip cvd's, a good body with window mask, (not some crappy fake looking body) ball diffs, a transponder mount, good tires and wheels, sway bars, lots of graphite, those composite shocks you guys make, full sealed ball bearings
I would demand it be 4WD have CVD Shafts be belt drive and have a graphite chassis.
Blake A Sternberger
shaft drive s3 caps (why does associated always include HARD tires in its kits?) ball diffs aluminum graphite titanium unobtainium BLUE STUFF!!!! buggy convertible
I would first off make the car have bearings. Bearings are so important in any car......cheap or costly. They do so much like reduce friction, increase speed, and keep the wear of certain parts to a minimum. I like 4wd on all of my touring cars. It must have a belt drive, the reason is they give, easier to put on, and virtually no maintenance to them where as you have to constantly clean the drive shaft, oil, it, etc. No fuss with belts. Good shocks are the key to success. Also swaybar kits. I prefer 20wt oil in my on-road shocks. I've found that a lot of companies' kits come with the oil, but most of the time it is too thin and can't handle track needs. I like plenty of aluminum parts, graphite parts, and about any other upgrade you can get of course. That's my .02 By the way, I have 2 David Jun TA03F's, a TA03F-pro, Inferno MP-5, RC10GT, RC10LSO, and BMT on-road gasser. Thanks, Justin Farmer Cocoa, FL 407-633-3004
1. Quick release wheels, because set-up starts with getting the right tire.
2. "set-up booklet"; This would be the "by the numbers" how to. For
example: 1. set car to manufacturers specs'. 2.Run car on the track. 3. Write down cars
response. 4. First adjustment will be tires, review chart at right for possible tire
combinations. 5.Run car on track to see possible changes. 6. ect. ect. ect. Associated has
led the way to user friendly equipment, don't stop now. Most amateurs are not
competitive
because they don't understand the basics in getting a car set-up. So teach them. Others at
the track are helpful up to the point that you turn better times than they do. Go to a
track as a beginner and "hang" with them, it is not the equipment but how to use
it. You could have "powder puff" clinics at major races using the interactive
manual you supplied with every new vehicle( key word interactive). The equipment you
already have or MIP makes it, but know one has yet to market in detail how to use it.
Educate the buyer and you control the mind which has a direct link to the pocket book.
3. Adjustable rear toe, 3 degrees for high traction tracts and four degrees for every
thing else.
4. Rear diff that was easy to get to for cleaning and adjustments, not to mention
durability.
You have great products! I would just like to see more on how to use it.
Idea: Associated's book of Touring cars 19.95 " " " " " off-road racing 19.95
I enjoy my GT and T3 thanks,
Andy
P.S. I race a Serpent Impact
It would have to have something that no-one else has thought of...Also a very light body.
of course it will be 4wd but it should either have a shaft drive system or the belt system should be enclosed to keep belt breakage down. also using duplicate parts such as same arms, shocks, and any other part that could be interchangeable front and rear so you wouldn't have to have as many spare parts in your tool box would be nice. I run a B3 and T3 right now so i know you guy's will make a high quality car that will be an outstanding performer.
Good inexpensive all around car or two versions one simple and inexpensive for beginners and another with all the bells and whistles f.e. bearings turnbuckles, ball diffs and graphite this and that.
All wheel drive with a sealed drive train.
SWAY BARS, ABILITY TO BE A RALLY CAR AS WELL AS A TOURER
A LOT OF PEOPLE DEPEND ON THE RC MAGAZINES TO HELP MAKE THEIR PURCHASING DECISIONS. SO PLEASE INCLUDE THE STUFF THAT COMES UP IN REVIEW AFTER REVIEW. BALL BEARINGS, BALL DIFFS, C-SUNK CHASSIS, GOOD SILICONE SHOCK OIL, LOTS OF ADJUSTABILITY, (NITRO) TUNED PIPE& HEADER, GOOD INSTRUCTIONS, STANDARD BODY/WHEEL MOUNTING AND SIZES, STIFF CHASSIS, ANY KIND OF TURNBUCKLES, (NITRO) GOOD BRAKE-FIBER/SS/GRAPHITE, GOOD MEDIUM TIRES W/INSERT, AND PLEASE DON'T START PRE-ASSY ANYTHING. ALSO IT HAS TO BE LIGHT. BELTS ARE NICE, BUT ROCKS BEAT THE HELL OUT OF THEM, (POSSIBLY SEALED DRIVE TRAIN). OH AND OF COURSE UNIVERSALS/CVDS (AT LEAST IN FRONT). IT DOESN'T HAVE TO HAVE GRAPHITE EVERYTHING OR PURPLE SCREWS.
CMROCHOTTE
graphite parts; chassis, rear shock tower, front shock tower. aluminum screw sets, proline tires, cool wheels, sealed ball bearings, belt tensioners, front and rear sway bars, titanium turnbuckles, anodized parts, CVD's front and rear, something similar to HPI's battery holder. how about a two speed tranny? or even a three speed!
Steve Chicago IL
titanium turnbuckles, pretty blue screws, lots 0 anodized parts, good shocks, belt driven, stick or saddle pack option, one way pulley/clicker/diff, all the competition stuff :) PocketRocket
A truck because you can go over the really rough STUFF!!!!!
|
Team Associated has won more IFMAR World Championships than any other manufacturer! |
|
Associated Electrics, Inc. |
www.teamassociated.com |
|
Get the Adobe Reader | Subscribe to Team Associated Insider's Newsletter |
|
Prices subject to change without notice. Not responsible for typographic errors.