1999 Question of the Week:
What after market products have helped your Associated kit?
RPM nylon dust cover, Hitec servo horn
Well I have a GT,T3,B3.For my GT: lundsford, Holeshot chassis, HG's aluminum rear
bulkhead, upper trans brace, diff gear, rear hub carriers, ti upper shaft,
upper shock shaft mount, lower collars, shock mounts, Graphite shock towers,
MIP shiny CVD's, gold shock shafts, CVEC pipe, factory works steering kit,
Proggresive suspension shock caps.
T3: Lundsford, ball bearing steering kit, HG upper shock mounts, lower shock
collars, Mip litedrives, gold shock shafts, shiny cvd's, graphite shock towers.
B3: Lundsford, MIP litedrives, shiny cvd's, HG's upper shock mounts, lower
collars, Ball
bearings steering kit and all graphite chassis and suspension. And that's all I can think
off hand. Good luck racing TAman
A maxtec 14t double on my b3 has helped alot and so has a b3 conversion kit
Elite Speed Products & Mip
Titan tech's product for RC10GT to keep chassis from flexing. Really helps out from stripping spur gears!!!!
Tires. The stock ones on my B3 didn't work very good at my local track. Some of the guys showed me which ones worked and my car improved alot
Lundsford Tie Rods and Hinge Pins, Aluminum Bulkheads and A-arms.
krkroupa
an electronic speed control
lunsford titanium, holeshot chassis, hi torque servo everything else is stock gt parts
The Titian Tech brace, Lunsford titanium turnbuckles, MIP ball bearing steering, MIP Shiny CVD's, O' Donnell head for my CV, and Step Pin tires for my track which are all for my GT which wins lots of races for me:)
MIP shock shafts
mip gold shock shafts work really good, as well as their seals, robinson racing spur gears and pinions, basically that is it cause the car is good enough as it is.
An RPM bumper for b2/b3/t3 has saved my motor a couple of times. But I had to learn the hard way the first time. It comes in handy for anybody who races with hacks.
RPM- front steering arms B3
mIp- Cvd's
Robinson Racing pinions and spurs are a little nicer and quieter than the kit pieces. MIP diff rebuild kits include drive rings that seem "truer" than the factory rings. Finally, RPM makes a great gear cover that just will not break. (That's my biggest gripe with Associated kits; those darn clear plastic gear covers)
Lunsford titanium turnbuckles. ASK YOUR LOCAL HOBBY SHOP! Another hop up would be after market stuff in catalogs you can order from r/c car action, magazine, or extreme magazine.
Titanium turnbuckles, GRAPHITE, HG aluminum parts (for the top TOP self cars, like losi does), Titanium hinge pins, something that works better than E clips, Associated line of tires, and possibly a transmission that works as good as Team Losi's. (And there shocks)
If you have already got the "team" version of the kit, a good hop-up will be titanium turnbuckles and/or carbon fiber suspension arms and mounts.
MIP alum. CVD's, Lunsford titanium turnbuckles, Trinity upper shock mounts, Pro-Line Square fuzzies in rear and Pro-Line The Edge in front (both in M3 compound). And all four of those are mounted on Velocity racing wheels. Also a whole slew of Factory Team parts including front kick-up, rear plate and motor mount, front and rear shock towers to name a few. All this and more to make my T3 SMOKE!!!!!
I know it's just a little thing, but I really like the bleed screws in the Yokomo shock caps. It makes it a little easier to get the air out.
lunsford titanium turn buckle, ultra gt chassis, shiny cvd, os max motor,
Bearings, Bearings, Bearings.
RPM steering arms, definitely stronger than the stock ones. also the RPM gear cover, way better than the weak, clear plastic one.
1 3 piece wheels 2 CVD'S for R/C10GT
THE BEST AFTERMARKET products that have helped me are MIP cvd's, GT 4 in 1 clutch and heavy flywheel. These products are essential to race at Family Hobbies Because clutches fail and a stock flywheel overpowers the track
titanium turn buckles are the best parts that you can run on your vehicle. they are indestructible. also, graphite chassis and suspension parts help resist flexing and handle better.
Most of all, HG's alloy arm mounts for my GT. Every other worth while mod came from the good old Factory Team.
I would first and for most ball bearings everywhere you can think of. Then the MIP CVD's. Then a nice servo for my GT, two nice servo's, a better heat sink, a receiver protector, Off set rims, Titiam Turnbuckles, and ball ends. And the one and only Titanium Chassis, Yes all Titanium, My uncle works at a place Where a lot of titianium is used. He told [me to design it and] he would build it so I'm in school taking CAD so I took the measurements and screws off the old one and drafted one up; it turned out very cool and very strong. I haven't striped a spur gear in 1 1\2 months it's great. have to send ya a picture. well that's about everything. if you have any questions or comments Peace Danny Dudleston Farmington Ut.
Tires. The ones included with the kit were good, but they didn't hook up well at my local track. After I threw some Pro-Line Hole Shots, M3 compound on my B3 it got really fast, really quick. Mr. Clutch
Tires. Pro-Line hole shots M3 compound got my car working fast
Mr. Clutch
My Radio. LEW
I have a RC10GT. The best thing that i put on it was probably a C-VEC tuned pipe. And a mip 4 n 1 clutch.
Possible new question: What's better, truck or buggy [Associated responds: That question is already in the Archive.]
ball bearing steering kits,4 disc clutch set, tuned pipes, ect.
Well, nothing on my electic truck and buggy. On my GT it would have to be the MIP 4in1 clutch and the trinity chassis brace and tranny brace. Other then that, my GT is a NORRCA division 8 winning, 3rd place finish in region 2 ROAR truck championships, and a 6th place in the C main at the 97 national's. I love the truck it's totally awesome. I hope you don't make any changes any time soon. heckertg
different shock shafts are a must! i prefer MIP's golden shock shafts. they make the suspension smother and last the lifetime of a kit in normal use. titanium turnbuckles are even more necessary. there's no way but buying a set. the stock units bend very soon. a reamer is very useful when assembling the kit since without using one you get a binding suspension. the L-type allen-drivers suck. get the associated allen wrenches.
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